How to Choose Plants for Sun and Shade in Millcreek, UT
Most plants that struggle in Millcreek yards are not bad plants. They are in the wrong light. Choosing plants for sun and shade in Millcreek comes down to one measurement: how many hours of direct sun each bed gets in midsummer. Six or more hours is full sun, three to six is part shade, and under three is shade. Pick plants rated for that exposure that also tolerate our alkaline clay soil, and treat any bed that takes hot afternoon sun off a west- or south-facing wall as its own category.
Here is how to apply that to the open lots, foothill homes, and big-tree yards across Millcreek, Utah.
Why Sun and Shade Work Differently in Millcreek Yards
Millcreek sits mostly in USDA hardiness zone 7b, with cooler pockets in zones 6b and 7a as the city climbs east toward the Wasatch foothills. The last spring frost usually lands in mid-April and the first fall frost in late October. That tells you what survives winter, not what survives July.
Summer light is the bigger factor here. Utah State University Extension points out that high elevation and low humidity increase solar radiation and water loss, even from the tree canopy that creates the shade. A bed that gets six hours of sun in Millcreek takes a harder hit than six hours in a humid, low-elevation state. So the “full sun” label on a nursery tag, written for a national market, can mislead you. Many full-sun plants look better along the Wasatch Front with some late-afternoon relief.
Millcreek also packs two very different yard types into one city. The western and central neighborhoods have denser development, smaller lots, and plenty of open, sun-baked frontage. East Millcreek, Olympus Cove, and the Canyon Rim area have decades-old maples, spruce, and ash trees that throw deep shade across entire backyards. Homes tucked close to the foothills can also see the morning sun arrive later as it clears the mountains. A plant list that works on one side of Highland Drive may fail on the other.
Step One: Map the Sun Before You Buy Plants in Millcreek
Guessing at sun exposure is the most common reason a new bed underperforms. Spend one day watching instead.
- Check in summer if you can. Late June and July show the sun at its highest and trees in full leaf. If you are planning in late fall, remember that bare branches let in far more light than you will have in July.
- Look at four times of day. Note whether each bed is in direct sun at roughly 9 a.m., noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m. Add up the hours.
- Separate morning sun from afternoon sun. Four hours of morning sun is gentle. Four hours from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. is the hottest light of the day. Most part-shade plants want the morning version.
- Flag the hot spots. West- and south-facing walls, vinyl fences, and concrete driveways reflect heat back onto nearby plants. Park strips get the same from the street. These spots need tougher plants than an open bed with the same sun hours.
Once you have hours for each bed, sort them into the categories below.
| Exposure | Direct sun (midsummer) | Where you see it in Millcreek | Plants that fit |
| Hot spot | 6+ hours, including afternoon, plus reflected heat | South and west foundations, park strips, driveway edges | Agastache (hummingbird mint), Russian sage, penstemon, lavender, blanket flower |
| Full sun | 6+ hours | Open backyards and front yards without street trees | Catmint, salvia, coneflower, daylily, ornamental grasses |
| Part shade | 3 to 6 hours, ideally morning | East-facing beds, the outer edge of a tree canopy | Coral bells, lady’s mantle, perennial geranium, columbine, corydalis |
| Full shade | Under 3 hours | North side of the house, under mature trees in East Millcreek and Olympus Cove | Hosta, brunnera, lungwort, hellebore, foam flower |
| Dry shade | Under 3 hours, plus tree root competition | Directly beneath large established trees | Creeping Oregon grape, snowberry, alpine currant |
Best Plants for Sunny Areas in Millcreek
Sunny beds are the easier half of the job, because most water-wise plants that thrive in Utah evolved in dry, open, full-sun country. The key is matching plant toughness to how hot the spot really runs.
For true hot spots, lean on plants that like heat and lean soil. Agastache, also called hummingbird mint, is one of USU Extension’s favorite performers and handles drought well once established. Russian sage, penstemon, and blanket flower hold up against a west wall in August. Lavender does well on the south or west side of a building. One local tip from USU: do not cut lavender to the ground in fall, which often kills it. Trim it back by up to half instead.
Open full-sun beds without the reflected heat give you a wider palette. Catmint, May Night or Caradonna salvia, coneflower, and daylilies all bloom for long stretches with moderate water. Ornamental grasses add winter structure while beds sit dormant.
Whatever you choose, group plants by water need. A hot-spot bed planted with low-water perennials should run on its own drip zone, separate from lawn sprinklers. Mixing thirsty and water-wise plants on one valve means one group is always watered wrong.
Best Plants for Shady Areas in Millcreek
Shade is where Millcreek yards get tricky, especially on the east side where mature trees dominate. The upside: a well-planted shade bed often looks better than a sunny one in midsummer, because foliage carries the design.
For full shade with decent moisture, hostas remain the most dependable choice, with sizes ranging from small edging plants to large specimens. Pair them with brunnera, lungwort, and hellebore for spring color, and foam flower and coral bells for season-long foliage. Columbine and Jacob’s ladder work well where the shade is light or broken.
The dry shade problem under big trees
The hardest spot in many Millcreek yards is the ground directly under a large maple or spruce. USU Extension describes it as a paradox: the traits that make a plant shade tolerant, like thin leaves, tend to make it less drought tolerant, and most drought-tolerant plants are built for full sun. Tree roots also win the fight for water.
For these spots, use plants proven in dry shade, such as creeping Oregon grape, snowberry, and alpine currant. Give them a dedicated drip line and two to three inches of mulch. Groundcover and shrubs usually outperform flowering perennials here. If your yard sits under a heavy canopy, our guide to outdoor lighting under Millcreek’s mature trees covers how that same canopy affects the rest of your landscape plan.
Match Plants to Millcreek Soil, Not Just the Sun
Getting the light right only solves half the problem. The other half is underground. USU Extension reports that Utah soils average a pH of about 8.0, and Wasatch Front soils average roughly 1.5 percent organic matter, compared with 4 to 5 percent in wetter parts of the country. Much of the Salt Lake Valley also sits on heavy clay.
That has three practical effects when you choose plants for sunny and shady areas in Millcreek:
- Skip acid-loving plants. Azaleas, rhododendrons, and blueberries struggle in alkaline soil. USU’s soil specialists recommend choosing plants suited to our conditions rather than fighting to lower pH.
- Watch for yellow leaves with green veins. That pattern usually signals iron chlorosis, a common Utah problem caused by high pH. It shows up most on plants that were a poor match for the soil to begin with.
- Amend shade beds with compost. Most shade plants come from woodland settings with rich, loose soil. Work organic compost into the bed before planting, and never amend clay with sand, which USU warns can make drainage worse. Avoid digging when the clay is wet.
If you are not sure what you are working with, USU’s Analytical Laboratory runs soil tests for homeowners.
Putting It Together: Your Millcreek Planting Plan
Choosing plants for sun and shade in Millcreek follows a simple order. Measure the sun hours in each bed during summer. Sort beds into hot spot, full sun, part shade, full shade, or dry shade. Choose plants from the matching list that tolerate alkaline clay. Then group them on irrigation zones by water need.
Late fall and winter are a good time to plan, so you can plant once the soil is workable in spring. Near the canyon? Our landscape design guide for East Millcreek covers that side of the city in more detail.

Get a Planting Plan Built for Your Millcreek Yard
Rather not spend a summer day tracking shadows? Millburn Lawn & Landscape can do it for you. We have more than 20 years of experience in Salt Lake Valley landscapes and are a licensed and insured landscape contractor. We map your sun and shade, check your soil, and design beds that hold up in Millcreek summers.
Call Millburn Lawn & Landscape at (801) 810-5452 or request a quote at millburnlandscape.com. We serve Millcreek, Holladay, Cottonwood Heights, and the rest of the Salt Lake Valley.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many hours of sun counts as full sun in Millcreek?
Full sun means six or more hours of direct sunlight in midsummer. In Millcreek, also note when that sun arrives. Six hours that include the late afternoon are much harsher than six morning hours, so many “full sun” plants do better here with a little afternoon shade.
What plants grow in full shade in Millcreek, Utah?
Hostas, brunnera, lungwort, hellebore, and foam flower all handle full shade with steady moisture. Coral bells and columbine work in lighter shade. Add compost first, since shade plants prefer richer soil than native clay.
What can I plant under a big tree in my Millcreek yard?
Under large trees you are dealing with dry shade. Creeping Oregon grape, snowberry, and alpine currant are proven choices for Utah. Run a separate drip line to the bed and mulch two to three inches deep, because the tree roots will take most of the water.
Can I grow azaleas or blueberries in Millcreek?
They are a struggle. Millcreek soils are alkaline, and acid-loving plants develop nutrient problems in high-pH soil. Choosing plants adapted to alkaline conditions works better than trying to change your soil.
Why are the leaves on my new plants turning yellow?
Yellow leaves with green veins usually point to iron chlorosis, caused by high soil pH. Yellowing or scorched edges can also mean a shade plant is getting too much afternoon sun. Check the bed’s sun hours against the plant’s rating before treating the soil.
When is the best time to plant in Millcreek?
Spring, after the mid-April frost window, is the safest time for most perennials and shrubs. Early fall also works for hardy plants because cooler weather helps roots establish. By late October, most planting should wait until spring.
Does Millburn Lawn & Landscape plant and design yards in Millcreek?
Yes. Millcreek is part of our Salt Lake County service area, and our team handles landscape design, planting, irrigation, and ongoing maintenance.


